What sealer can and can't do

Sealer can:

  • Change the look: deepen the color for a "wet look," or keep a natural, matte finish, depending on the product.
  • Make stains from oil, food, leaves, and drinks easier to clean up. It slows stains down; it does not make pavers stain-proof.
  • Help hold joint sand in place, if it is a product made to stabilize joints.
  • Make mildew and algae easier to wash off a shaded surface.

Sealer can't:

  • Fix pavers that are sinking, rocking, or holding puddles. That is a base problem.
  • Stop efflorescence for good. Sealing over that white haze can lock it in.
  • Make pavers maintenance-free, or stop weeds on its own.

What is different on the coast

Humidity and rain

Moisture is the most common reason sealer goes wrong in Florida. If pavers are still damp when a film-forming sealer goes on, the moisture can get trapped and turn the sealer cloudy or white. Pavers can hold water for a while after a storm, and summer afternoon storms make timing harder. Many people find the drier months easier for sealing, but the real test is a dry surface and a dry forecast for the time the label asks for.

Salt air and salt-water pools

Salt residue builds up on surfaces near the Gulf and around salt-water pools. Rinsing with fresh water now and then helps whether or not the pavers are sealed. Natural stone such as travertine around a salt-water pool is often sealed on the stone supplier's advice; ask what they recommend for the stone you have.

Sun

Florida sun and heat wear sealers down over time, so sealing is not a one-time job. How often it needs redoing depends on the product, the sun, and the traffic; the label or manufacturer will give guidance.

Slipperiness

Glossy, film-forming sealers can be slick when wet, which matters on pool decks, steps, and sloped driveways. Lower-sheen products, or ones made for use with an anti-slip additive, are worth asking about for anywhere people walk barefoot or wet.

Rust stains from irrigation

Orange stains on pavers and walls are common in Florida where irrigation runs on well water with iron in it. Sealing does not stop them. Aim the sprinkler heads away from hardscape and use a rust remover made for pavers, testing it in a hidden spot first.

The main types of sealer

Product names vary, but most fall into a few groups:

  • Penetrating sealers soak into the paver and leave little or no film on top. They change the look the least and generally let moisture vapor escape, which suits a humid climate.
  • Film-forming acrylic sealers, water-based or solvent-based, sit on the surface and enhance color, from satin to high gloss. They give the biggest change in look and are the most sensitive to moisture during application.
  • Harder-wearing film formers, such as polyurethane products, are tougher but harder to remove or recoat if something goes wrong.
  • Joint-stabilizing sealers are made to bind the sand in the joints.

If the pavers have been sealed before, find out with what. Some sealers do not bond over others, and stripping old sealer is a job of its own.

If you do seal: the order of operations

  1. Give new pavers time. Many manufacturers recommend waiting before sealing new concrete pavers, partly so efflorescence can come out first. Ask your installer or the manufacturer how long.
  2. Clean thoroughly. Remove dirt, mildew, stains, and efflorescence with products made for pavers. If you pressure wash, use moderate pressure with a fan tip or a surface cleaner and keep the nozzle back from the surface; too much pressure can blow out joint sand and scar the face of the pavers.
  3. Refill the joints. Bring the joint sand back up to the right level. If you use polymeric sand, follow its instructions for watering and cure time before any sealer goes on.
  4. Let everything dry. Check the forecast. Pavers can look dry on top and still hold moisture underneath.
  5. Apply thin, even coats. Follow the label. Puddles and heavy coats are a common cause of cloudy patches.
  6. Stay off it. Keep feet and cars off for as long as the label says.

If you don't seal: simple routine care

  • Sweep or blow off sand, leaves, and palm debris; leaves left on pavers can stain.
  • Rinse salt off now and then if you are near the water or a salt-water pool.
  • Pull weeds early and top up joint sand where it has washed out.
  • Clean oil, food, and rust spots soon, before they set.
  • Keep sprinklers aimed at the plants, not the pavers.

When to get help

Cloudy or peeling sealer, widespread joint-sand loss, or heavy staining are usually cleaning, stripping, or resealing problems. Areas that are sinking, rocking, or holding water are base problems, and no sealer will fix them; those sections need to be lifted, the base corrected, and the pavers relaid.

If you are planning new pavers, ask about sealing at the on-site visit so the choice is made with the material in mind. See paver driveways, patios and walkways, and pool decks, or read pavers vs. poured concrete in Florida.